How to Brush a Double-Coated Dog: Tools, Steps and Drying
Work in sections down to the skin: an undercoat rake first, a slicker brush next, a metal comb to check. Brush at least weekly, more while the coat sheds, and dry fully after a bath.
In short
- Brush a double-coated dog in small sections, lifting the top layer and working down to the skin, rather than skimming the surface.
- Use the tools in order: an undercoat rake for loose fluff, a slicker brush for the outer coat, then a metal comb to find anything you missed.
- A groomer quoted by the American Kennel Club suggests brushing a double coat at least once a week, and more often while it is shedding heavily.
- After a bath, rinse twice and dry right down to the skin; a damp undercoat packs into mats.
- Shaving a double coat is commonly advised against by groomers; if mats reach the skin, book a professional groomer and ask your vet about any skin worries.
Huskies, German shepherds, golden retrievers, Pomeranians and corgis all wear two coats at once. The secret to a tidy, comfortable dog is brushing down to the skin in sections, with the right tool for each layer. Here is what that means, which tools to use in which order, and a session you can do on the living room floor.
What a double coat is
A double coat has two layers that do different jobs. The undercoat is soft, dense and woolly, sitting close to the skin. The guard hairs on top are longer and coarser, and they shed water and dirt. The American Kennel Club's grooming guide describes the undercoat as the layer that buffers temperature and the topcoat as the layer that repels moisture and shields the skin.
The undercoat is the layer that sheds in clouds. If nobody brushes it out, the loose fluff stays trapped under the guard hairs and felts into mats. A quick stroke over the top looks lovely but does very little.
- Classic double coats: Siberian huskies, Alaskan malamutes, German shepherds, golden retrievers, Labradors, Pomeranians, corgis, Samoyeds, Bernese mountain dogs, Shetland sheepdogs.
The tools, in the order you use them
Five tools cover almost every double coat, and each does a job the others cannot. Find them all on our grooming shelf.
| Tool | What it does | Use it |
|---|---|---|
| Undercoat rake | Long rounded pins reach through the guard hairs and pull loose undercoat out | First, in sections, with the grain |
| Slicker brush | Fine bent wire pins smooth the outer coat and lift the last loose hairs | Second, light strokes |
| Deshedding tool | A short fine-toothed edge grabs loose undercoat near the surface | Sparingly, once a week at most in a heavy shed |
| Metal comb | Shows you what is left: if it glides to the skin, you are done | Last, as the check |
| High-velocity dryer | Blows water and loose fluff out of the coat after a bath | After bathing, on a low setting first |
Undercoat rakes
A rake has a row of rounded metal pins. Single-row rakes are gentler and suit medium coats; double-row rakes move more fluff on thick coats like a husky's. Choose a handle that fills your hand.
Undercoat rakes for thick coats
Rounded pins that slip through the topcoat to the fluff underneath.
Slicker brushes and deshedding tools
A slicker brush finishes what the rake starts. Use a light wrist and let the pins do the work; pressing hard can scrape the skin. A deshedding tool has a short, fine blade-like comb and pulls a lot of fluff in a few strokes, which is exactly why it needs a gentle hand. Keep strokes short, never go over one spot again and again, and save it for shedding season.
Slickers and deshedders
Slickers smooth the outer coat; deshedders are for the heavy-shed weeks.
Metal combs and dematting tools
A stainless steel comb with wide and narrow teeth is your truth-teller. Run it through each section after brushing. If it catches, go back with the rake. For a small knot, a dematting comb with curved blades can split it so you can tease it apart, holding the hair at the base so you never tug the skin.
Combs and knot helpers
A comb checks your work; a dematting comb handles small knots.
A step-by-step brushing session
Choose a time when your dog is tired and relaxed. Put down a towel, keep treats in reach and stay close and calm. Short, happy sessions beat one long wrestle.
- Feel the coat first. Run your hands over the body, behind the ears, under the legs and around the tail. Note any knots before a tool touches them.
- Mist lightly. A light spritz of water or a grooming spray cuts static and helps the coat glide. Never brush a bone-dry, dusty coat hard.
- Start low and work up. Begin at the back legs or lower body. Lift the hair above with one hand so you can see a line of skin.
- Rake the line. Draw the undercoat rake through the hair just below your hand, in the direction the hair grows. When the rake comes out nearly clean, drop your hand a little and do the next line. Groomers call this line brushing.
- Follow with the slicker. Smooth each finished section with light strokes.
- Check with the comb. Comb down to the skin. Any snag means that line needs another pass with the rake.
- Save the tricky spots for last. Behind the ears, the armpits, the trousers on the back legs and the base of the tail tangle the most. Go slowly with fingers and comb.
- Finish with praise. End on a good note, even if you only did half the dog. Finish the rest tomorrow.
While you have the grooming kit out, it is a good moment for paws too. Our guide to nail grinders and clippers covers the trim.
How often to brush, in and out of shedding season
At least once a week is the baseline. That is the advice of professional groomer Dale Martins in the American Kennel Club's guide to double coats. A weekly session keeps the undercoat moving and lets you spot knots while they are small.
Most double coats also have one or two big sheds a year, called blowing coat, when the undercoat comes out in tufts. During those weeks, step up to several short sessions a week, or more while the tufts keep coming.
| Time of year | How often | Main tools |
|---|---|---|
| Regular weeks | At least once a week | Slicker and comb, a light rake |
| Blowing coat | Several short sessions a week, or more while tufts keep coming | Rake first, deshedder sparingly, then slicker and comb |
Bathing and drying fully
Bathe only when your dog is dirty; the AKC guide notes that frequent baths can strip the coat's natural oils. When you do bathe, wet the coat right down to the skin, which takes longer than you would think through a thick undercoat. Rinse twice, because shampoo left deep in the coat is hard to see. Pick a gentle dog shampoo and check the label.
Some groomers bathe before the big brush-out. In a column for groomers, Daryl Conner writes that a clean, conditioned coat brushes out far more easily than a dirty one, and a high-velocity dryer then pushes loose undercoat out with the water.
Drying is the step people skip. A double coat can feel dry on top while the undercoat stays damp, and damp fluff packs into mats. Towel off, then use a dog dryer on a cool or low-warm setting, nozzle a hand's width away and always moving. Start on low speed at the back end, then comb to the skin and feel for cool, damp patches.
Dryers and bath helpers
Force dryers move water and fluff out of a thick coat; rubber brushes help at bath time.
A force dryer for big shedders
A high-velocity dryer with a heater and a long flexible hose, plus several nozzles for broad areas and fine work. It is a serious time saver for a husky, shepherd or golden after a bath.
- Start on the lowest speed and keep the nozzle moving
- Never point the airflow at the face or ears
- Comb through afterwards to check the undercoat is dry
Grooming table helpers
For a steady, comfortable stand during brushing and drying.
Why shaving is commonly advised against
Groomers commonly advise against shaving a double coat. In the American Kennel Club's guide, Dale Martins recommends avoiding a shave unless severe matting keeps the skin from drying, explaining that shaving damages the topcoat and the insulating undercoat and leaves the skin more exposed to the sun.
The kinder way to help a double-coated dog through warm weather is to brush out the dead undercoat, so air can move through the guard hairs, and to give shade and water. For winter, the coat is already doing a lot; if your dog still needs a layer on cold walks, see how to choose a dog winter coat. If you are unsure about your own dog's coat or skin, ask your vet.
Mats, and when to see a groomer
Small knots near the surface can be teased out with fingers, a comb and a dematting tool, holding the hair close to the skin so you never pull. Book a professional groomer when:
- Mats are tight against the skin or you cannot get a comb between the mat and the skin.
- Large areas feel felted or packed, like a pad, especially behind the ears, in the armpits or on the back legs.
- Your dog cries, snaps or will not settle when you touch an area.
- The coat has been wet and matted for a while, which the AKC guide warns can trap moisture against the skin.
- You see redness, sores, a smell or anything unusual on the skin: ask your vet first.
A groomer can remove packed coat gently and trim matted areas if needed. A weekly brushing habit keeps it from coming back. Browse more undercoat rakes to build your kit.
Questions people ask
What not to do with double-coated dogs?
Avoid shaving the coat unless a groomer says matting leaves no other choice, and avoid brushing only the top layer. Do not press hard with a slicker or overuse a deshedding tool on one spot. After a bath, do not leave the undercoat damp.
How often should a double-coated dog be brushed?
Professional groomer Dale Martins, quoted by the American Kennel Club, suggests at least once a week. During a heavy shed, when the undercoat comes out in tufts, brush in several short sessions a week or more until it settles.
What is the best way to wash a double-coated dog?
Brush out loose coat and small knots first, or follow a groomer's bath-first method with a dryer to push fluff out. Wet the coat right down to the skin, use a gentle dog shampoo, and rinse twice so nothing is left deep in the undercoat.
How do I dry my double-coated dog fully?
Towel off, then use a dog dryer on a cool or low-warm setting, keeping the nozzle moving and away from the face. Work in sections down to the skin and finish by combing through and feeling for any cool, damp patches.
What is the best brush for a double-coated dog?
There is no single brush. An undercoat rake does the heavy lifting, a slicker brush finishes the outer coat and a metal comb checks your work. A deshedding tool and a high-velocity dryer are helpful extras for big shedders.
About the numbers
- American Kennel Club, How to Groom a Double-Coated Dog, read 2026-10-07: Groomer Dale Martins: brush at least once a week; avoid shaving unless severe matting; shaving damages the topcoat and insulating undercoat; bathe only when dirty and dry completely
- Groomer to Groomer, Double Coated Dogs: Which Comes First, the Brush or the Bath? by Daryl Conner, read 2026-10-07: A clean, conditioned coat is easier to brush out; a high-velocity dryer removes more dead coat
- Google search, people also ask and related searches for "how to brush a double coated dog", United States, read 2026-10-07: Questions on what not to do, brushing frequency, washing and drying; related searches for undercoat rake, slicker brush and shaving double coats
